The lookout spot at Bung Bratak. On the right horizon is the very faint outline of Mt. Singai, another local tourist attraction (pix taken on 18 Sept. 2020)
At only about 1,000 feet above sea level, Bung Bratak may not claim to be a mountain but from its high points, the view of the lowland in front of it is the kind that warms a weary climber after a “strenuous” half an hour climb, well, actually a series of easy steps, imagine climbing halfway up Petronas Twin Tower’s stairway taking your own sweet time.
But first the drive. Its a measly 50 minutes drive from centre of Kuching city to the foothill car park. There are two ways to reach Bung Bratak: One is the old road via the quaint old town of Siniawan, itself worth a visit as it is right beside the main road. The other route is the newer highway via Batu Kawa. As of writing, this route is now being upgraded into the Pan Borneo Highway. When completed in a couple of years from now this will be the faster route to Bung Bratak. Tip: Use Google map, this is quite accurate.
A day trip to Bung Bratak should start early in the morning like 7.00am or 8.00am so arriving and starting the ascent still in relative cool weather. The steps are hewn from the earth interspaced with wood or cement so for the not-so-fit, this is a good way to gauge your ability to do other hill outdoor activities which you may want to pass!
Verdant greens and plenty of bamboo shrubs line the way and when you see a wooden rest shelter, Bung Bratak is just a short climb up. The hilltop is leveled on several levels, the first is the reception platform where visitors can catch a breather while registering themselves. Another short flight up is the open ground with a great view of the lowland below. On a clear day, the distinct outline of the Mt Singai’s flat top is obvious in the distance. So is the outline of the Matang mountain on the left of the horizon. The side of this flat ground has a small ravine with a picturesque bamboo bridge crossing it where there is a traditional hut manned by some local Bidayuh people selling traditional food, but it is only available during weekend. For weekdays visit, advance booking for food is advised.
Another walkway up from this ground is the main complex of another reception where you pay the entrance fee (RM5 and RM10 for local and foreigner respectively). There is a small “museum” displaying some local Bidayuh artifacts, and a big covered area for activities. BB also has facilities for overnight visitors. In fact group events can be held here as there are dormitories for perhaps a hundred people or so. Details of bookings and rates are available at Bung Bratak Heritage Centre’s website.
The main building complex with covered activity area and dorm on the left
The whole area can be toured in just half an hour, longer if you take lots of photos or have some activities there like picnic on its ground or playing games. The descent is much easier but then why hurry? Its not even noon!
Pretty manicured ground and a bamboo bridge to the right.
A good way to round up this trip is to side trip to the history town of Bau, the gold mining town which is just 15 minutes drive away. Do pass by the scenic Blue Lake or Tasik Biru the disused open cast mining ground. Its signage show the year 1820, which is exactly 200 years ago that the Chinese miners came over from Indonesia’s Sambas region where they had settled earlier as migrants from Southern China. Most of them were Hakka and later these group also made up the significant Hakka population of Kuching. For stories on the Chinese gold miners in Bau, read here.
By the time mining activities stopped in the late 1950’s it had grown into a large and thriving market town. A lively marketplace in the centre of town sells amazing varieties of vegetables and jungle produce, and if it’s fruit season (usually Dec. – Jan.) there are many fruits collected by the rural folks on sale with the most famous being the durian. People from Kuching are known to drive all the way here to buy durian, often opening the fruits and eating them on the spot! There are several big food courts in town with plenty of halal food too.
After lunch, and if using the old road back to Kuching, do turn into the unique 100-year old town of Siniawan, where the shophouses are still being preserved in its original wooden facade. It is a sleepy town with only a few shops still trading as most residents migrated to the city for work. But on the evenings of every weekend – Friday, Saturday and Sunday, the town comes to life with its famous night market, selling nothing else but food, food and food. As people from Kuching and Bau drive all the way here to have dinner and supper.
The start of the climb to Bung Bratak, just a stone throw from the car park.
All in all, this is a very enjoyable day trip for those city folks seeking a respite from their hectic work. For history buffs here’s the story http://rjes1n.tripod.com/Bung_bratak.html on how this place became famous among the Bidayuh tribe of the area.
Finally, Tip #1: Use the Batu Kawa way to go to BB, then off to Bau town for lunch and finally take the old road via Siniawan to return to Kuching. Tip #2: If you want to avoid the crowd on weekends, go during weekdays, we did that on a Friday and the whole mountain belonged to us! Shhh….
