Travel Guide Kuching

A cult is built around a charismatic person or an iconic product, and cult status is only attained when this product, in this case Sarawak Laksa, is

1. Undescribably, uncontrollably addictive

2. Sublimely, intoxicatingly delicious

3. Has a lot of die-hard fans and would go to great length to get it.

4. Has a mini protocol on how it should be served! (More on this afterward)

5. Can cause its fans to go cuckoo and depressed if deprived for a week

So, what is Laksa Sarawak? It is actually a concoction of thin rice noodle (vermicelli or beehoon in local lingo) in a broth or thick soup of various spices and coconut milk that looks and smells not unlike curry. Served in a bowl, it is topped up with prawns, shredded chicken meat, omelette cut in strips, and strands of coriander. Its condiment is usually a small dollop of prawn paste (belachan) mixed with juice from freshly squeezed lime. 

Did I mention a protocol on how a bowl of Laksa Sarawak should be served to a hardcore laksa purist? It goes like this:

1. It is only to be consumed within the hot and humid environment of a kopitiam with beads of sweat forming on your forehead (its a culinary sin to eat Sarawak Laksa in aircon comfort)
2. It has to be served piping hot, nothing is worse than a lukewarm bowl of laksa.
3. The calamansi provided must be squeezed till the last drop of its juice drips into the dollop of belachan in the small condiment bowl, then stirred into a paste, then poured into the laksa. Finally stir the laksa so the goodness of this condiment is infused into the broth.
4. Laksa purists also insist on a generous clump of coriander garnished on top of the dish. If you hate the smell of coriander, you are not a fan.
5. Prawns are a must, so are the omelette and shredded chicken meat, (in that order for me. No prawn, no laksa)
6. The broth has to be spicy, but the degree of spiciness varies from one addict to another, but spicy it must be nonetheless. (If you can’t take spicy food, stop reading now) This is why every fan has his or her own favourite stalls.
7. Tissues papers (lots of it) must be within easy reach as nasal dripping is almost a certainty (blowing of nose must not be audible, the din of the kopitiam helps)

Foodies and those familiar with West Malaysian Laksa eg. Melaka’s Nyonya Laksa, Johor Laksa, Penang Assam Laksa, etc, should find Sarawak Laksa an interesting alternative to their own kind. Comparisons have been made between the above mentioned versions of Laksas in Youtube and food blogs, just google them and you will get the verdict and thus the hype behind this most sublime dish. But true blue Sarawakian will defend to the death Sarawak’s honour of having the best laksa in the world!

Most Kuchingites have their own favourite cafes for enjoying this dish, and the most famous arguably would have to be Chong Choon Cafe and Choon Hui Cafe probably because they are in the tourist precincts. Of course there are scores of very good ones too found all over the city. Words of new cafes with great laksa can spread like wildfire nowadays with the advent of modern mass media, however only the best can sustain a sizable clientele base, thus a crowded kopitiam with a non-stop busy laksa stall is a sure sign of a great choice. 

Laksa is a breakfast dish for the locals, so go early because the good ones are usually finished by as early as 11.00am. Of course there are some eateries that serve Laksa throughout the day and evening so, so check out first before going to avoid disappointment. Recommended time: 7.00 – 10.00am.

Best of all, Laksa Sarawak, like all other laksas is a halal dish and is thus enjoyed by all the various races of Malaysia, Yes, when it comes to cult food, nothing, not even the iconic kolo mee, comes close. Why else would you think someone once called Sarawak Laksa the breakfast of the gods?